By Tara Narayan

HE CELEBRATION of Ganesh Chaturthi is the most popular celebration in Maharashtra and Mumbai. In fact, in Mumbai, the celebration has now become popular with the large cosmopolitan population from the other states of India and abroad residing here. Many co-operative housing societies in the Western and Eastern suburbs have a Ganpati or Ganesh idol installed ceremoniously during Ganesh Chaturthi and not just native Marathi-speaking citizens but Gujaratis, Punjabis, Sindhis, residents hailing from West Bengal, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, and others who have made Mumbai their home city, imbibe the spirit of the celebration to seek the blessings of Lord Shiva and Parvati’s popular elephant-headed son. Hindu mythology is replete with stories about this elephant- headed god (created by Parvati in one incident) who has come to symbolize the virtues of knowledge and wisdom for believers. Most auspicious functions commence with an invocation to the Lord Ganesh who from all accounts was in charge of Lord Shiva’s army of “ganas” or attendants and was a lord who loved the good life.

In fact, Ganesh has become some kind of a collector’s icon cutting across all barriers of in India and abroad! One sees this if one is in Mumbai especially for the Ganesh Chaturthi celebration. With his rotund stomach even children know that Lord Ganesh (or Lord Lambodara as he is also otherwise called) loves his modak. The traditional rice flour, coconut and jaggery steamed piece de resistance which is traditionally made in every big or small Maharashtrian household during Ganesh Chaturthi. In the sweetmeat shops around surburban Mumbai one may come across varieties of modak e.g. made of mawa, made of cashewnut, stuffed with cream of wheat (rava) and dry dessicated coconut, poppy seeds, cardamom seeds…mostly sweet but also savoury modaks. But the traditional classic ukdi che modak recipe is handed down in each family from generation to generation.This is the modak to offer Lord Ganesh. At one time one could find this modak only in Maharashtrian homes but so popular has it become that now one may find it in certain stores putting out a whole array of traditional fare for those who are unable to make these things at home for one reason or another come Ganesh Chaturthi.

Most folk living in and around the Vila Parle (East) suburb make a beeline to place orders for ukdi che modak from Vijay Stores down Shradhanand Road. Here proprietor or proprietress Shailatai has a team of dedicated workers labouring around the clock during Ganesh Chaturthi to turn out the most delectable ukdi che modak. They are retailed on order during the Chaturthi days and the order list is long. Count yourself lucky if you manage to get your ukdi che modak from Vijay Stores! They come freshly steamed, translucently inviting, these dumplings packed with a delicious coconut-jaggery mixture (in Goa we call it choon)…drop a bit of pure ghee on them and savour them leisurely. All other modaks pale in comparison to the classic ukdi che modak. Twenty-one is the magic number to woo the Lord Ganesh, so during the auspicious worshipping which takes place during Ganesh Chaturthi 21 modaks are offered to him.When deftly and finely made by an expert these ukdi che modak melt like any prized Swiss chocolate in the mouth!

First time round may be a botched attempt at making this classic modak but persist and you will rejoice in turning out ukdi che modak fit for Lord Ganesh! Here’s a recipe:

UKDI CHE MODAK
Ingredients: 1 whole fresh coconut, grated; one-and-a-quarter cup jaggery; half cup sugar (optional); 2 tbs khus khus (poppy seeds); 5 or 6 cardamoms (crushed); 3 cups basmati rice flour (or ukdi che peeth as it is called); two to three quarter cups water; half tbs pure ghee; a pinch of salt.

Method: In a pan, add jaggery, sugar (if used) and coconut and heat over a slow fire till the mixture is a semi-dry mass. Cool and add cardamom powder, poppy seeds, and keep aside.

To make the rice flour dough keep water for boiling in a thick bottomed vessel, add ghee and pinch of salt (you may add til or peanut oil if you wish), lower the fire and add the rice flour slowly, stirring all the time to prevent lumping. Cook for a few minutes, remove from fire and cool a little but not too much, remove the rice flour dough onto a plate and knead the dough gently. Shape lime-sized portions onto the palm of one hand and using fingers pat out a puri or round, shaping out a hollow for placing a tablespoon of coconut and jaggery filling in it. Dipping fingers in water bring edges together and gently shape into a fluted modak or dumpling, ending with a twist at the top. Make all the modaks similarly, cover with a clean linen cloth.

Now boil some water in a vessel, place a steel sieve lined with mul cloth in it and after dipping each modak in ice water place them on the sieve. Cover larger vessel with lid. Steam for about 10 minutes. The modaks will turn translucent white. Take off fire, remove modaks and serve them hot either with a pure drop of ghee or at room temperature without the ghee. Either way they’re temptations without any rivals. It’s worth learning how to make ukdi che modak Maharashtrian-style.

Of course you may also buy them in the market these seven days of Ganesh Chaturthi in suburban Mumbai, but the commercial ones are seldom as good. They’re generally priced at Rs.5 per modak or more if the quality is extra special.

Back